Choosing the right in- window air conditioner for you

Summer is coming and you might be in the market to replace your old ac unit. So how do you know what to buy? Here are some tips.

Don’t buy a larger air conditioner than you need.

Most people think bigger is better, but that is not always the case. According to Consumer Reports and The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers (AHAM),   an AC unit too large or powerful for your room will turn off its compressor before it’s had a chance to “lower” the humidity level in the room. The results will be a room that is cold, clammy, and uncomfortable.

To figure out what size air conditioner you need for you room, measure the size of the room first. Then multiply the length by the width and that total is your square footage. You can use a chart or calculation provided by a manufacturer (usually available on their website) to determine how many BTUs (or British Thermal Units) you need your air conditioner to produce.

Consider your climate and other factors when purchasing an air conditioner.

Do you live in a hot and humid climate or it more of a dry heat? How many windows does the room have? Is it shady? What direction is the window facing? Consumer Reports provides as interactive worksheet that takes all these items into account, as does AHAM. To find out what type or air conditioner you need, visit AHAM’s interactive worksheet and see your results based on region, the structure of your house, and the people and activities inside of it.

After finding the correct AC for your home, try to purchase a unit that is energy efficient and look for the “AHAM-certified” seal. According to the AHAM’s website, “Models certified through AHAM’s program have been tested and their performance verified by an independent laboratory, assuring consumers that the product will perform according to the manufacturer’s product claims for BTU’s per hour, amps and efficiency.”

So what if you do not own a new air conditioner or can’t afford to buy one? There are ways to make your current air conditioner work better and be more energy efficient. Sign up for the AP Wagner Newsletter and get some valuable tips on how to make your old air conditioner more energy efficient and how to cut down on summer energy bills.

More help and related articles

• Air Conditioner Parts
• Replace your air conditioner filter
• Why does the air conditioner hum but not blow any cool air out?

Why won’t the dish water drain from my dishwasher?

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If the water won’t drain from the dishwasher, first manually remove as much water as possible and then check the sump area for paper or any other large object. Make sure the door is properly latched. The pump will not drain if the door is not latched properly. Check the belt, drain line, air gap, drain valve and solenoid assembly, the motor, and the pump. If your dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump, and it has broken or come off the pulley, replace it.

A cup or so of water in the sump area of your dishwasher is normal. It is there to prevent the seals from drying out. The dishwasher will pump this old water out before beginning to wash.

If you have recently installed a garbage disposer in your home, make sure that the drain plug on the disposer has been removed. It’s just a little plastic piece that blocks the hole where you hook the dishwasher drain hose. If your dishwasher drains through the garbage disposer, you need to run the garbage disposer before you run the dishwasher to make sure that the drain is clear.

There is a drain hose between the drain valve or pump and the garbage disposal or drain line. If an obstruction has blocked this, then your dishwasher won’t drain. The drain hose is connected by clamps to the drain valve and the disposer or drain pipe. Remove it and visually inspect it for a clog or a kink. Try to remove any debris. If it is in good condition, just put it back on, and if not, purchase a new one to install.

If you don’t have an air gap in the drain line, at least use a high drain loop. Making a large loop about 18″ off the ground with the drain line can prevent any back flow into the dishwasher from the sink.

If you have one, the air gap will be located on top of the sink. The air gap is there to prevent any siphoning of standing water from the sink. When your dishwasher drains, the air gap diaphragm will form a seal and allow the water to drain properly. If the diaphragm in the air gap is faulty, it’s possible that water can leak onto the cabinet and into the sink area. When this happens, then the air gap must be replaced.

Like the inlet valve, there is also a drain valve on most models. When no power goes to the drain valve it remains closed and prevents water from leaving the machine. When the valve receives power during the drain cycle, the solenoid opens and allows the water to leave the machine. If your drain hose is attached directly to the pump, you don’t have a drain valve. The motor simply reverses and the pump sends the water in the opposite direction, which is out of the machine.

If the motor doesn’t turn or work properly, the dishwasher may not drain. Make sure you have power to the unit. If you notice that the motor hums but won’t turn, it could be seized, and you probably need to replace it.

Small objects can sometimes get stuck in the pump. When this occurs, you’ll need to open the pump and remove any debris buildup. The dishwasher pump is usually mounted directly to the motor and runs off the motor as well. The pump is also attached to the bottom of your dishwasher and pushes the water from the dishwasher.

Looking for more dishwasher repair help online? Visit our dishwasher repair section at APWagner.com. Here, you will find answers to such questions as: Why does an error code display? Why doesn’t my dishwasher work at all? Why are the dishes still dirty? Should I pre-wash my dishes? What’s the best way to load the dishwasher?

Why aren’t my dishes dry when the dishwasher finishes?

You can also order any needed dishwasher parts online and get them shipped to you, most often, the same day, so you can make that repair quickly. If you need any help finding the correct part for your dishwasher, call us at 1-888-279-2463, or click on the chat live button at the top of the site.

Why is the clothes dryer destroying my clothes?

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It happened again, your clothes were ruined by the dryer! Burn holes in your underwear and your other articles of clothing, torn and shredded. What is going on? You dryer might need some fixin’ and here’s what you will need to replace.

If your clothes are getting ripped, cut or torn, your dryer probably has a felt-like seal at the front and/or rear of the dryer drum that has worn out, is torn or is missing. Your clothes might be getting caught in the gap between the clothes drum and the front or rear of the dryer interior. When a clothes dryer seal wears out, you need to replace it.

Also, check the lint filter or lint trap; it might be worn or showing sharp edges. Your clothes could possible be getting caught on this during the cycle. Be sure to replace this part immediately.

If your clothing comes out marked up, the support parts for the dryer drum might be worn out, thus, throwing the drum off-balances and getting your clothes pinched in between parts of the dryer. Check the glides, rollers, wheels, and seals for wear. Replace the whole set of glides, rollers, or wheels if one or more are bad. You will also want to check the rear support for any play in it. Sometimes the rear drum bearing gets worn out.

If your laundry is coming out smelling smoky, your dryer may have had a small lint fire inside the cabinet, leaving a smoky odor in the clothes drum and on your clothes. Even though there is a lint filter in your dryer, it doesn’t catch all the lint. You need to check inside the cabinet at least yearly to look for and clean out any lint build-up. Check the inside cabinet and inner ductwork of your dryer. A dryer vent lint brush will help you reach inside the machine and vent to brush off and remove any built up lint. Also, be sure to clean out the lint trap after every use.

A lint fire is nothing to take lightly; many house fires are caused by lint build up in dryers and their vents. According to this 2005 article from CBS News, 15,000 house fires are caused by dryers every year. Keep your family safe by checking for lint buildup in the cabinet at least yearly. Be sure to check your outside exhaust vent for blockages. Install a smoke alarm near your dryer for added protection. Have a professional appliance repair person check the dryer for damage caused by any lint fires and to cleanout any lint from any pipes connected to the dryer.

Also, don’t put items in the dryer such as garage rags stained with motor oil or gasoline, and aprons, dish towels, or napkins stained with cooking oil. Even if the items was washed previously, some residue might still remain and possible cause a combustion.

Other items that aren’t meant for the dryer: anything made of rubber or plastic, such as baby diaper pants, bath mats, even foam-padded bras (bras and other delicates should be air-dried anyways to prevent them from bending and losing their shape!)

A signal that your dryer might be becoming clogged with lint, your clothes just aren’t coming out dry.

If your clothes are coming out all wrinkled, do not let your clothes sit in the dryer after the cycle has ended – remove the clothes promptly from the dryer and either hang or fold them. Also, dry only one load at a time; don’t pack the dryer too full. Do not dry heavy items with light items. Use the permanent press cycle to give clothes a cool down cycle at the end to reduce wrinkling.

Make sure you are also washing the clothes in the correct temperature (water that is too hot can also cause clothes to wrinkle). Be sure to read and follow the care instructions on the clothing item’s label for best results.